Historical building with mural paintings on its facade, set in a city square, with a wet street, a few pedestrians, and modern buildings around on a rainy day.

Ulm, Germany

Spire shadows & quiet streets


Ulm became a comfortable midpoint in my sabbatical, a place to slow down and reconnect before the next stretch of travel. I met up with family there, and the city immediately took on a warmer tone because of it. Our hotel happened to have the Barfüßer brewery inside, which made things even easier. Sharing a few of their beers in the evening felt like the perfect way to settle in and catch up.

During the days, we explored the city at an easy pace. The cathedral dominated the skyline as always, its spire impossible to ignore no matter where you stand. The old fishermen’s quarter, with its narrow lanes and leaning houses, offered a quieter charm, and walking along the river gave us a simple way to enjoy the winter light without rushing anywhere.

One evening we decided to do something different and went to an ice hockey game: the Ulm Devils against the Schongau Mammuts. It was loud, fast, and unexpectedly fun, the kind of local experience that makes a place feel more real than any landmark ever could.

Ulm didn’t demand much from us, and that was exactly what made it enjoyable. Good company, good beer, a bit of exploring, and a game to cheer for. Sometimes a city doesn’t need to be more than that.

Sights

Food & Drinks